Friday, 18 January 2019

The Noble Family from Barolo

The noble family Cordero di Montezemolo has managed the Monfalletto property at the heart of Barolo in La Morra village for 19 generations since 1340. Alberto Cordero di Montezemolo, who was in Hong Kong recently, explained that the estate was a multi-agricultural farm until his orphan grandfather Paolo focused on wine production, and the family was blessed with a historical single vineyard plot of 28ha on the hill, a rarity in Barolo. Including purchased and leased vineyards, the estate has 56 ha of vines under production.

Arneis is a native white grape variety in Piedmont but has given way to red grape varieties in the 20th century to the point of extinction. Cordero di Montezemolo was one of the pioneers to revitalise this grape variety. We tasted Cordero di Montezemolo Arneis 2017, fresh with yellow fruits and a hint of herbal notes that was great as aperitif or with snacks.

Barolo is the jewel of the estate. Alberto said they use a mixture of French barriques and Slovenian casks for ageing depending on the vineyards. This makes the wine approachable when young but not overpowering. Monfalletto Barolo is a blend of the estate’s vineyards where the vines are between 15 and 50 years old. The 1996 is elegant with prominent floral notes and a sense of lightness on palate, a delightful pairing with the ossobuco. Enrico VI Barolo is from a single vineyard of only 2.2 ha in the Villero cru with a more powerful and austere expression that is quite different from the Monfalletto’s.

The family also produces Barolo Riserva ‘Gorette’ only in the best years. Paolo always had a special Barolo for friends visiting him at the cellar and this wine is made with this moment in mind. The wine, bottled in magnum, is only offered to visitors of the winery. So next time when you are in Barolo, make sure to visit Cordero di Montezemolo.

Cordero di Montezemolo is available from Cuvées.

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