Friday 11 March 2016

Acaibo, the creation of love

I came across Acaibo at a Gonzague & Clare Lurton tasting, the Bordeaux couple both from wine families but separately and successfully manage their own family properties, Ferriere, Haut-Bages Libéral and Durfort-Vivens. At first I thought Acaibo is just another commercial New World venture from a Bordeaux family but upon talking to Claire at the tasting, I found that Acaibo is more than a mere investment.

Gonzague and Claire, along with their extended family members, own more than 20 chateaux in Bordeaux alone but the couple always wants to create something special that they can truly call their own, like their children. After over 10 years of searching, they finally came across this 24-acre (around 10ha) piece of land on Chalk Hill in Sonoma that according to Claire, was more than just land, and that she could sense the wildness, life and purity.

They named the property Trinité Estate, derived from the Latin saying ‘Omni Trium Perfectum’, loosely translated as all sets of three are perfect, to pay homage to the three Grand Cru chateaux they took over and managed, the three grape varieties (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot & Cabernet Franc) where their wines are made from, and their three beautiful children. Gonzague and Claire consider themselves as guidance of the land which will be one day looked after by their children.

Acaibo is the name of the Bordeaux blend wine from Trinité, made up from words of the Native Americans living around Chalk Hill long time ago. Aca means fish, or Aka means water, a precious resource in California’s viticulture, and sibo means three - hence the logo with three fish.

We tasted Acaibo 2012 and 2013. 2012 was clearly New World with upfront ripe fruits, while 2013 was more restrained with an added elegance. Claire agreed and explained that they bought the property in August 2012 and although harvest was in October, they couldn’t do much in terms of vineyard management, whereas for the 2013 vintage, they had a full year to tend it and make sure it was in natural equilibrium. She was even more excited about 2014 vintage and reckoned it would be the best of the three. The couple is proud of this blend of their French tradition with a very American spirit of adventure.

The fact that Gonzague and Claire moved the whole family to Sonoma indicated their commitment. Although Claire said she split her time between Bordeaux and Sonoma, I could see from her eyes and the way she talked that Trinité Estate is what the family called home now. There they planted vines, and their children play in the trees, and sometimes sleep at night beneath the vines.

Acaibo is available from CCF Wine.

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